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| Boulware5 2004-07-04, 4:53 pm |
| Wayyyyy off topic, but I need an opinion here.  I need 4 new tires. I have narrowed it down to these two...
4 Delta tires or 4 Goodyear Viva 2's. They are both around the same price. With the Viva 2's I get free lifetime rotations and balancing and with the delta I just get free lifetime roatations. This will cost me a few hundred dollars, so I won't to make a good decision. | |
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| Balancing usually costs about $10 per tire. Seems like a pretty good deal to me... unless they sucker you into an unnecessary alignment job every time you take them up on it.  | |
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| Boulware5 2004-07-04, 6:31 pm |
| quote:
Originally posted by mikop
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Awesome reply! | |
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| I go with Goodyear  | |
| Deja-vue 2004-07-05, 2:44 am |
| Personally, i'd go with Michelin.
I never heard about the Deltas, the Good Years are good tires. Also really depends on the Car. What's the make? | |
| peterd 2004-07-05, 3:22 am |
| Hello,
you actually worry about 'rotation' of tyres? I assume you mean switching the wheels to different sides of the car to even out wear?
I can't think of anyone here who bothers with that.
I stick on a wheel with a half-decent tyre that I buy from a scrap-yard for 6 - 8 (UK Sterling), it's usually been balanced by the previous owner, and it last for up to a year. Then I bung on another one.
If any one tyre is wearing out, especially down one side, then I know I have a problem with that 'corner' of the car...wheel-bearing or ball-joint, etc, and I can get it sorted.
Regards
Peter | |
| Hal9000 2004-07-05, 6:46 am |
| Quote
---------------------------------------------
I stick on a wheel with a half-decent tyre that I buy from a scrap-yard for 6 - 8 (UK Sterling), it's usually been balanced by the previous owner, and it last for up to a year.
---------------------------------------------
You see we are all incredibly poor over here in blighty and can't even afford the price of a cup of tea.
Mind you if your in Liverpool the scousers will sort out you tire problems pronto. The'll just put your motor up on house bricks and nick all your wheels for you. No need for balancing or rotation and its very cost effective on fuel as well.
If we exported a few scousers over to you in the states after a few years (as they breed like mad as well) apart from reducing huge areas of cities to dereliction (have you seen Merseyside?) you wouldn't have a single car anywhere with hub caps, wheels or tyres. Oil problems sorted, bring the trrops home! | |
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| Well, since this has become a "post a picture of your tires" thread, here's my 1990 Bronco. I decided to use different tires in the front and back. Ones in the front (Bridgestone) have shutes to prevent hydroplaning on the street. Ones in the back (Firestone) have a lot of bite for off-roading. Trained attack cat eliminated the need for an alarm system.
http://members.aol.com/sellingcoins/90bronco.jpg
I don't really drive the Bronco much though. Also have a 1.0 liter 3-cylinder Geo Metro that gets 58 mpg on the highway. As fuel efficient as a hybrid electric and cost $9,000 brand spankin' new. They stopped making the 3-cylinder models however. Guess it was taking business away from the BMW priced hybrids.  | |
| prezbedard 2004-07-05, 12:27 pm |
| hmmm isn't enforcer on a car mechanics site? check his sig. | |
| MistyRing 2004-07-05, 2:33 pm |
| Just bought 2 fancy shmancy big fat low profile singing, dancing, run flat, run inflated, go anywhere tyres that cost the price of a farm in some countries. One got a puncture yesterday...  | |
| Hal9000 2004-07-05, 2:52 pm |
| MistyRing you should lobby the local council to pave the streets then. It has not been the same since they ripped up them tram lines and sold off the cobbles to affluent southerners for their gardens. Get a Euro grant or something, they do things for deprived areas I'm told. | |
| MistyRing 2004-07-05, 3:05 pm |
| You have paved streets in London?? Wow! You're so sophisticated there. Bet you live next door to the Queen and have tea and scones every single day!!!
I dream of being you... | |
| enforcer 2004-07-05, 5:11 pm |
| quote:
Originally posted by prezbedard
hmmm isn't enforcer on a car mechanics site? check his sig.
The only mechanics at the site I visit are the mechanics of getting a PC to work in the car.
Sorry know not-a-lot about tyres.
Although I am surprised that free lifetime rotation of types is something you consider a plus point. Just how hard is it to undo a few bolts and move the tyre yourself  | |
| Hal9000 2004-07-05, 7:03 pm |
| MystyRing,
Don't dream of being down here its a nightmare. I'm trying to get out and be somewhere else as it killing me and my wife. London sucks it is so Americanised and shallow now. | |
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| curiousgeorge 2004-07-05, 11:09 pm |
| If the tires cost the same, get the ones with the highest temperature rating.
The temperature rating is A, B, or C.
Whatever you do, never buy tires with a C temperature rating.
The temperature rating measures the amount of built up heat the tire can disperse. If it can't disperse heat well (a C rated tire), it is more likely to give you a blow out as you reach speeds over 75 mph.
A high temperature rating also means the rubber will deteriorate faster.
You can ask a salesperson what the temperature rating is on each tire, or if it's on the web, it should be listed in the description of the tire.
Hope that helps. | |
| Boulware5 2004-07-06, 12:00 am |
| quote:
Originally posted by curiousgeorge
If the tires cost the same, get the ones with the highest temperature rating.
The temperature rating is A, B, or C.
Whatever you do, never buy tires with a C temperature rating.
The temperature rating measures the amount of built up heat the tire can disperse. If it can't disperse heat well (a C rated tire), it is more likely to give you a blow out as you reach speeds over 75 mph.
A high temperature rating also means the rubber will deteriorate faster.
You can ask a salesperson what the temperature rating is on each tire, or if it's on the web, it should be listed in the description of the tire.
Hope that helps.
The ones I decided on have a temp rating of 'b' and a traction rating of 'a' | |
| curiousgeorge 2004-07-06, 2:25 pm |
| good choice. | |
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| enforcer 2004-07-14, 5:23 am |
| I'm more worried above the flowers guarding the entrance to the house. Baby triffids? | |
| bearing 2004-07-14, 6:14 am |
| quote:
Originally posted by enforcer
I'm more worried above the flowers guarding the entrance to the house. Baby triffids?
Actually the most worrying thing in that photo is the brick I'm using as an axle stand. | |
| enforcer 2004-07-14, 6:22 am |
| quote:
Originally posted by bearing
Actually the most worrying thing in that photo is the brick I'm using as an axle stand.
I wouldn't mate, they have been tried and tested in Liverpool for many years. Always found to be solid and reliable | |
| prezbedard 2004-07-14, 9:26 am |
| quote:
Originally posted by bearing
I also have my own trained attack cat.
and he looks all so happy too | |
| freak 2004-07-14, 10:12 am |
| quote:
Originally posted by Deja-vue
Personally, i'd go with Michelin.
I never heard about the Deltas, the Good Years are good tires. Also really depends on the Car. What's the make?
Bingo, same here. Check out www.TireRack.com | |
| yanqui 2004-07-15, 4:59 pm |
| Enforcer, you don't rotate tires much, do you? We do almost all of our own vehicle maintenance, including tire rotation, and whoever made the remark about switching sides, your tires are too old, take them off the road! Radial tires don't get switched side-to-side, only front-and-back. When you run a tire with belts, running the tire in one direction most of the time (you just don't spend an equal amount of time driving backwards) beats the belts down in one direction, and putting that tire on the opposite side of the car will produce a horrific ride and wear out the tire and your dental work. On the other hand, switching back-to-front will relieve some of the wear on the steering tires, and you won't have front tires wearing out faster than the rear tires, and have to change out two tires before the other two. You get the full wear out of all four tires.
Now, the process: you lift the car and remove a tire, and if you don't have a hydraulic jack that will hold the whole side of the car up, front and back, you have to put your spare on the hub where you've just taken the tire off, let the car down, lift and remove the other tire, put the first tire on, let the car down, lift the car, remove the spare, replace with the other tire. Repeat for the other side.
lifetime rotation is a good deal. | |
| enforcer 2004-07-15, 6:38 pm |
| quote:
Originally posted by yanqui
Enforcer, you don't rotate tires much, do you?
What ya on about, everytime I drive the damn thing, the tyres rotate.
anyway I stand by what I said
"Just how hard is it to undo a few bolts and move the tyre yourself".
and I think you've proved it by giving such a wonderful set of instructions on how to do it. | |
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| I don't rotate tires either. I have someone else do it for me. Not enough time in the day for that sort of stuff, and to be honest, it's not like I have the skill either | |
| bearing 2004-07-16, 7:09 am |
| quote:
Originally posted by yanqui
Now, the process: you lift the car and remove a tire, and if you don't have a hydraulic jack that will hold the whole side of the car up, front and back, you have to put your spare on the hub where you've just taken the tire off, let the car down, lift and remove the other tire, put the first tire on, let the car down, lift the car, remove the spare, replace with the other tire. Repeat for the other side.
lifetime rotation is a good deal.
Rotation at my house is simplicity.
[1]Switch on compressor and allow to charge with air.
[2]While waiting for compressor crack wheel nuts on all wheels.
[3]Jack up one side of vehicle and insert axle stands front and rear.
[4]Attach appropriate impact socket to air wrench and remove wheel nuts.
[5]Swap wheels front to back, then remove axle stands and repeat from #3 on other side.
Ah the beauty of air tools. | |
| enforcer 2004-07-16, 7:27 am |
| quote:
Originally posted by bearing
Rotation at my house is simplicity.
[1]Switch on compressor and allow to charge with air.
[2]While waiting for compressor crack wheel nuts on all wheels.
[3]Jack up one side of vehicle and insert axle stands front and rear.
[4]Attach appropriate impact socket to air wrench and remove wheel nuts.
[5]Swap wheels front to back, then remove axle stands and repeat from #3 on other side.
Ah the beauty of air tools.
Hmmm, I know there's a passing wind joke in there somewhere trying to get out. | |
| MistyRing 2004-07-16, 8:05 am |
| Sorry I just don't see the point. The tyres are all going to wear out eventually. Prolonging the life of 2 of them will just shorten the life of the other 2. In total you won't get any more mileage out of the 4 tyres. | |
| bearing 2004-07-16, 9:08 am |
| quote:
Originally posted by MistyRing
Sorry I just don't see the point. The tyres are all going to wear out eventually. Prolonging the life of 2 of them will just shorten the life of the other 2. In total you won't get any more mileage out of the 4 tyres.
Assuming a FWD car which would wear the front tyres much faster:
Well worn front tyres will perform differently from rear tyres with lots of tread. This may cause odd handling, since the car was designed to have four matching tyres.
When you replace the front tyres, you'll have to match the old rear tyres, or have mismatched tyres. If you rotate the tyres so that they all wear out at the same time, you'll be able to replace a full set at a time, allowing you to get a matched set of the tyres of your choice.
Eventually, tyres need to be replaced due to age deterioration; you will be wasting some of the tread life if the tyres need to be replaced for this reason before their tread is worn away.
Mind you after the rotation has been done the tyres will have to bed in as they have been worn to a specific pattern on the corner they were on previously. Thus resulting in a tyre that isn't 100% efficient and thus can be deemed as maybe being unsafe. | |
| yanqui 2004-07-16, 9:20 am |
| And whether or not you notice any difference in the drive of the vehicle depends on the vehicle itself, and its condition, and also on whether or not you really like to drive.
I love to drive, and I notice just about everything about the vehicle's performance, and I can pretty well tell when one of the steering tires is getting out of balance.
I have an old Mazda MX3 with 180,000 miles on it that has never had a front end alignment and still pulls a perfectly straight path. Man, I love that car! But when one of the tires has too little air in it, it starts to feel funny in the steering. Most people probably wouldn't even notice it. | |
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| Am I the only one to be totally cracked up with this thread? | |
| Teck Shark 2004-07-16, 9:56 am |
| quote:
Originally posted by freak
Am I the only one to be totally cracked up with this thread?
Nope! | |
| curiousgeorge 2004-07-16, 1:09 pm |
| I just bought four new tires for one of my cars at Walmart. They give you lifetime tire rotation and balance when you buy tires from them.
I don't ever rotate my tires, but now that it's free, I guess I will. | |
| yanqui 2004-07-16, 1:55 pm |
| quote:
Originally posted by bearing
Mind you after the rotation has been done the tyres will have to bed in as they have been worn to a specific pattern on the corner they were on previously. Thus resulting in a tyre that isn't 100% efficient and thus can be deemed as maybe being unsafe.
Tire makers recommend doing the rotation at about 6000 miles--don't know how that translates into metric--but that's before you would notice any wear to your tires, unless something's wrong with your car. | |
| MistyRing 2004-07-17, 10:37 am |
| quote:
Originally posted by bearing
Assuming a FWD car which would wear the front tyres much faster:
Well worn front tyres will perform differently from rear tyres with lots of tread. This may cause odd handling, since the car was designed to have four matching tyres.
When you replace the front tyres, you'll have to match the old rear tyres, or have mismatched tyres. If you rotate the tyres so that they all wear out at the same time, you'll be able to replace a full set at a time, allowing you to get a matched set of the tyres of your choice.
Eventually, tyres need to be replaced due to age deterioration; you will be wasting some of the tread life if the tyres need to be replaced for this reason before their tread is worn away.
Mind you after the rotation has been done the tyres will have to bed in as they have been worn to a specific pattern on the corner they were on previously. Thus resulting in a tyre that isn't 100% efficient and thus can be deemed as maybe being unsafe.
What's wrong with having mismatched tyres? I wouldn't have 2 different tyres at the same end but I doubt it makes much odds if the front ones differ from those on the rear. | |
| peterd 2004-07-19, 3:53 am |
| Hi,
I buy part-worn tyres (or wheel and tyre from a scrap-yard) and replace one tyre at a time, as required.
I don't worry about tread patterns, make, etc. I just bung the tyres on and the car drives ok.
As long as they're radials on all wheels, inflated to the correct pressure, you're not going to get into problems, skids, slides, spins, etc...unless you're driving too fast for the road conditions.
What's all the fuss about?
Regards
Peter | |
| bearing 2004-07-19, 4:37 am |
| quote:
Originally posted by MistyRing
What's wrong with having mismatched tyres? I wouldn't have 2 different tyres at the same end but I doubt it makes much odds if the front ones differ from those on the rear.
Some folk have to keep up an image. | |
| MistyRing 2004-07-19, 8:51 am |
| In a Landy???  | |
| yanqui 2004-07-19, 9:22 am |
| Well, as long as I'm going to take the effort of keeping the oil changed and the tires inflated and keep the car waxed and vacuumed (okay, that's lower on the priority list) I am also going to do whatever I can to keep from having to fork out a minimum of $350 dollars for tires. Over the course of time, used tires cost as much as new ones, because you buy them more often. Also, it takes more to make sure they're inflated; you just expect that new tires maintain proper inflation unless you have sudden atmosphere changes. Used tires you're not so sure of, so you have to check them more often. I also like knowing how many miles are on my tires, because I know better what to expect. There is always the possibility of some freak think happening. Also, you can't get a good alignment with different sized tires on front/back. Some places won't even bother trying to do it with different size tires.
Also, I really do like having the same tread on all tires, since I'm driving fairly nice cars. On my old beater cars, I wasn't so picky, and I did buy used tires, because I just wouldn't put anything new on them. And I was afraid to wash them, because I think the rust was all that held htem together. | |
| enforcer 2004-07-19, 10:00 am |
| quote:
Originally posted by yanqui
There is always the possibility of some freak think happening.
yes I also get worried when freak starts thinking | |
| yanqui 2004-07-19, 10:03 am |
| thanks for pointing out my inadequacy. I'll return the favor someday. | |
| bearing 2004-07-20, 9:10 am |
| quote:
Originally posted by MistyRing
In a Landy???
I was pulling your leg on the image thing, but as an off-road vehicle it's a wise thing to have the same tread pattern on all four corners.
Mind you the tryes I use are only £40 a pop so it's hardly a bank breaker if I need to replace all four anyway, tis one of the reasons I don't bother with tyre rotation. | |
| bearing 2004-07-20, 9:12 am |
| . | |
| MistyRing 2004-07-20, 2:01 pm |
| quote:
Originally posted by bearing
I was pulling your leg on the image thing, but as an off-road vehicle it's a wise thing to have the same tread pattern on all four corners.
Mind you the tryes I use are only £40 a pop so it's hardly a bank breaker if I need to replace all four anyway, tis one of the reasons I don't bother with tyre rotation.
I know you were. And I am a lazy bar-steward, which is why I never rotate mine. In fact I've never even checked the oil - but I do hand wash her now and then. | |
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| MistyRing 2004-07-20, 3:22 pm |
| No I don't do a high mileage, but I used to do 40,000 miles a year and never checked the oil then either. After all unless you have an oil leak where is it going to go? And if you do have an leak that's what the oil warning light is for.
As for changing it - I have an Italian car and an ex-pat Italian car mechanic brother-in-law, so guess who does the servicing! | |
| yanqui 2004-07-20, 3:32 pm |
| quote:
Originally posted by MistyRing
No I don't do a high mileage, but I used to do 40,000 miles a year and never checked the oil then either. After all unless you have an oil leak where is it going to go?
Your car will "lose" oil through use; some cars use more during normal driving than others. (I can't believe I have to explain this to a man!) My Jeep doesn't leak but by the time we change the oil, it's down a quart. Our GMC truck has just started to burn oil; you can actually see the smoke if you sit in traffic for a few mintutes.
quote:
And if you do have an leak that's what the oil warning light is for.
By the time the light comes on, you need to pull over and shut the engine off until you can add more oil! That little oil warning light isn't to tell you your oil is LOW, it's to tell you to shut the engine off, you are OUT of oil. If you have a leak, you need to fix it. What if the light burns out? NOT FUN!
quote:
As for changing it - I have an Italian car and an ex-pat Italian car mechanic brother-in-law, so guess who does the servicing!
I know people who don't even know they're supposed to change the oil! | |
| MistyRing 2004-07-20, 4:34 pm |
| Well I've never lost an engine yet! | |
| yanqui 2004-07-20, 4:39 pm |
| maybe everything denser on your side of the pond.
Oil maintenance is the cheapest thing you can do to protect your engine. you're pretty lucky, if you never check your oil and have never lost an engine. For the amount of time spend on the process, weighed against the cost of an engine, it's time well spent. On a junk car, I wouldn't bother, either. But on a car that I actually borrowed money to buy, I do whatever it takes to make it run like it ought to for as long as it will. | |
| MistyRing 2004-07-20, 4:53 pm |
| I always had the opposite philosophy. When I was younger and ran a sucession of old bangers I used to take the time to change the oil etc, but I reckon newer cars can take care of themselves - aside from dropping it off for a service every 12,000 or so. | |
| yanqui 2004-07-20, 5:08 pm |
| that may work if your toilet flushes counterclockwise, I guess. I always figured I could replace a $200 car pretty easily, but a $25,000 would take a bit more effort. |
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